Africas creatures find a place of their own

IT was the highly publicized remarriage of Liz Taylor and the late Richard Burton (with lesser luminaries following “this back to Africa” act) which pushed Botswana, and the Chobe National Park, into international prominence, placing it firmly on the visiting list for well-heeled pleasures seekers. But for those who love and cherish Africa in her primitive glory, the nature of his publicity was a violation of the spiritual element.

Chobe’s magic does not translate into tourist’s terms. But with the Botswana Government’s strict adherence to the conservation laws there is nothing about this game park which is strident… there are unlovely rancorous human noises… no frantic traffic sounds… blaring radios.

Both hunting and the carrying of forearms are totally forbidden. This is nature’s domain. And so it is that only the lazy lapping of the water or the call of the fish eagle breaks the silence.

Chobe Game lodge provides the only permanent accommodation in the Chobe National Game Park. Not only to international tourists and now to many South Africans, who with devalued money have started, to their surprise and joy, to discover their own continent, but also to several “local guests” who seem very contented with the amenities on offer.

These include a charming family of gently grunting warthogs who, on their knees, chomp away at the lawns; and abundance of very frisky squirrels, one of them, Watty, is shamelessly spoilt and the house pet of Helgar Haninger, the manager, and his wife Jill (she is Africa’s answer to Dr Dolittle!).

Several marauding baboons think nothing of removing the sugar bowls from the tables. And then there is Fat Albert, the resident elephant. And he too finds a great deal to his liking. It is Albert’s nocturnal wadings into the river combines with the grunts of the happy hippos which tend to wake lodge guests and have them nervously wondering exactly what is going bump in the night.

So what makes the lodge special? The setting? Surely unique. For hugging the three-lined banks of the Chobe River this lodge must occupy one of the best river sites in Africa. All this and the fact that here laziness is not only no sin… it is actively encouraged. Guests need never move away from the precincts of their private patios; for sooner or later panoply of both animal abd bird-life (of which there are 470 species) will present themselves.

The site is certainly a winner and so too is the atmosphere. This is where tensions melt away and time slips by. Eager to see of the big five predators (lion, leopard, cheetah, buffalo, and elephant) off we went on a dawn game-viewing drive. Very cold it was and the silent landscape was still veiled in the morning mist.

In the open jeep with our unarmed driver, Walter Murambiwa, we followed the lion’s spoor in the soft sand tracks. This led us straight into fairly dense bush, right up to a splendidly handsome pair of lions breakfasting on what had been a plump baby elephant.

We seemed to be almost eyeball to eyeball with these beasts. One, I was convinced, never took his unblinking yellow eyes off me… as I sat alone at the back of the jeep. Nor did I find the rather impatient flick of his tail too comforting.

Watching this rare sight… for this is what motivates tourists to travel from far-off lands, I found it frankly unnerving. Handsome as the lion was, I decided I preferred his domesticated baby brother.

And when he and his companion growled menacingly towards “our crowd” I longed for the security of the bars at the zoo. Not only was I keeping a wary eye on the lions, but I was also watching Walter. Would he, if required to, be able to make that quick getaway? It seemed the constant clicking of cameras and whirring of videos made our tawny friends rather ill-tempered…and after what seemed an eternity, and with my prayers and adrenalin going at the rate of knots, we eventually left.

In retrospect, and from the cosy precincts of the lodge, I realized this had been a most unusual experience. And of course all this was recounted to our envious cp-guests. With very telling the tale became bolder…

A thought had struck me as I sat, so nervously, in the African bush. At the moment when we were far off the beaten track it was Walter Murambiwa whom we replied upon for our protection and safety. Yet until that dawn drive we had been total strangers. But we had not found this 25-year-old drive-guide wanting in either skill or judgment. This made me want to know more about him.