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On my first visit to Chobe National Park I concentrated on the Savuti Area and this time I spent the week-end at the Lodges along the banks of the Chobe River near Kasane. There are quite a few different ways of getting to Kasane and I chose a new route recently opened by Namib Air on their convenient twice weekly Johannesburg – Windhoek flight which stops at Mapacha (a 2hrs and 30 mins flight) in the Eastern Caprivi.
Here an Avis chauffeur driven 4-wheel drive Toyota Hi-Ace will transfer you from Katima Mulilo to Kasane (to clear customs and immigration) and then to your lodge. The drive itself takes 2 hours on a very reasonable road. I stayed at Chobe Game Lodge – really magnificent five star luxury in the bush.
Chobe game Lodge is owned by Jonathan Gibson, who is the Managing Director, and Sun International. I heard many fabulous stories about Chobe Game Lodge but I still did bot quite expect such luxury and style in the middle of a national park. Chobe Game Lodge has accommodation for 80 guests. The standard rooms are all air conditioned and open onto lovely tropical gardens at the rivers edge or onto private balconies with magnificent views across the flood plain. Yet in the four suites, Hollywood magnificence comes to the bush and stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and Richard Chamberlain have reveled in the privacy and peace of their own private oasis. Each suite has its own swimming pool. Inside the suites the décor is rich and beautiful and brushed with a touch of Africa and two of the suites even have two bathrooms!
Meals at Chobe Game Lodge are a real gourmet experience- Ragout of venison, terrine of Impala and tiger fish pate are some of the specialties which have made the cuisine at Chobe Game Lodge renowned. I particularly enjoyed the large buffets for breakfast and lunch. What more can I say about Chobe Game Lodge… I mustn’t forget the unique art gallery situated in the lounge where guests can see magnificent examples of rare African art carvings and tapestry… or the excellent conference facilities with seating for 80 delegates.
There is do much to do at Chobe Game Lodge that a week-end will be all too short. You can choose a sunset cruise on the Mosi Oa Tunya barge, a game drive by landrover or a power boat cruise along the Chobe either to fish or to view countless species of game enjoying an evening drink. Chobe Game Lodge is a five star paradise in the middle of the bush with a great appeal to the tourist seeking comforts, luxury and service and superb cuisine. For many, however, it may be too big and too sophisticated for a real bush safari. I was also very lucky to enjoy the hospitality of Chobe Chilwero which appeals more to the traveler searching for a smaller safari “camp” style of holiday. Chobe Chilwero which accommodates a maximum of 16 guests will certainly satisfy the real wildlife enthusiast’s desire to be close to the bush yet at the same time giving him top quality accommodation with bathroom en suite and really excellent meals. Brian and Jan Graham built Chobe Chilwero about four years ago and they have recently done magnificent job.
Chilwero, “The Beholden View” in the local tongue, is one of Botswana’s most attractive Safari camps, in fact in my opinion, in the top 5 bracket. Chilwero consists of 8 thatched bungalows each with bathroom en suite and hot and cold water. The thatched lounge and diningh room are gives the camp a special intimate atmosphere and the “beholden” view over the Chobe River from the raised look-out lounge is truly magnificent.
Andre and Marianne are the Managers of Chobe Chilwero. Andre has been working in wildlife management all his life and has an unbelievable knowledge of the bird life and has an unbelievable knowledge of the bird life and animals of Chobe. A game drive or a boat cruise with him is a rich experience as he not only spot all sorts of animals and birds but he can fill you in on their habits etc. Marianne, Andre’s wife, is the chef and what a magnificent cordon bleu chef she is, although she will be the first to admit that she has had no formal training. Homemade bread and scones, superb venison dishes, mouth-watering pies and tarts are all part of her repertoire.
Chobe Chilwero is situated right on the border of the Chobe National Park but as there is no fence, the animals feel free to amble around Chilwero during the day and night. The snores of our fellow guests in the chalets next door are punctuated with the groans, grunts, trumpets and snorts of buffalo, elephant, warthogs, buck and the occasional roars of a lion.
One of the highlights of one’s stay at Chilwero is a boat ride on the Chobe with Andre or one of his very able assistants, Patrick or Millson. Chilwero’s boat is a modern, very powerful (good for getting away from hippos) and most important VERY quiet motor boat which enables one to get really close to birds and animals without disturbing them. Chilwero also offers a very exclusive safari experience through its Linyanti Explorations tour operation. Ron and Hilary Crous are the people behind Linyati Explorations and offer a customized, very personalized tailor-made photo-safari experience. The safaris take place between March and November and are designed to cater for a maximum of 4 persons per safari. The minimum lenth of a safari will be 10 days and a maximum of 3 weeks.
Ron uses a Toyota 4-wheel drive land cruiser which has been superbly kitted out. He also takes a 5 ton 4-wheel drive supply truck which travels ahead of the Safari and erects the camp. The camp is very exclusive with large spacious tents with en suite hot and cold showers and toilet facilities. The beds are usual standard beds with mattresses; in fact, most of the creature comforts of a 5 star hotel.
Chilwero and Linyati Explorations also operate Mopororo, an exclusive bush camp situated 50kms south of Kasane on the edge of the park. Mopororo can be combined with a stay at Chobe and I would recommend including it on a 5 day safari to Chobe with the first and last nights at Chilwero and two nights at Mopororo. |