Into The Okavango. A wilderness of beauty and drama in Botswana

Accomodation is in six large raised tents, each with an en-suite bathroom and a veranda overlooking the floodplain. As with all camps in the Wilderness Safaris portfolio, Duba Plains is an unfenced camp and animals, including lion and elephant, often walk through the grounds at night. Guests are always escorted to and from their tents by a guide.

After a light lunch and quick siesta, we head out on an afternoon game drive. The sun sinks low as Kabelo our guide steers us across a waterlogged floodplain. A flock of birds fly in formation through the crimson sky. Just this morning I was in Cape Town but already the city stress seems a long way away.

Up ahead, almost camouflaged in the yellow grass, the Tsaro pride of lions lie sleeping. Their bellies are bulging from a buffalo they killed earlier today. Nearby we find the remains of the carcass. It’s been totally devoured and all that’s left are the skull, skeleton and hooves. A lone jackal and two vultures pick at the bones.

The next day, it’s time to move on to Jacana Camp. Transport between camps is by small aircraft and always takes place over lunchtime, outside of the prime game viewing hours.

From the landing strip, it’s a short boat ride to the camp, situated on a small wooded island. It’s a beautiful blue-sky day as we wind through the twisting channels where squacco herons, fish eagles and malachite kingfishers fly from the reed beds as we pass.

On arrival at Jacana, I’m met by an impressive welcoming committee – managers Martin and Tania, and Jack, a 50-year-old bull elephant wading just five metres from our boat. ‘Quite a reception, don’t you think,’ says Martin, standing dead still on the jetty as Jack plods past unperturbed.

Activities at Jacana Camp are water-based with the highlight being a mokoro trip through the shallow channels. All the big game species are found here and there are large populations of red lechwe and sitatunga.

That night after dinner, the makalani palm trees start to rattle. Jack’s back and he’s brought along a few friends who seemed determined to shake loose some of the makalani nuts. I’m escorted to my tent and prepare for bed when suddenly there’s a huge crash outside. Nuts come tumbling down and I shine my torch into the darkness. Looking back at me are the yellow eyes of an elephant.