Into The Okavango. A wilderness of beauty and drama in Botswana

The next morning after a fiery sunrise, we set out on a mokoro trip to a nearby island. A light breeze ruffles the water as my guide George Tembo poles us smoothly through the clear shallows. Occasionally we stop to watch red lechwe grazing and to photograph the green and purple water lilies.

At the island, George gives instructions before leading us on a hike into the bush. ‘This is a nature walk but we could come across wild animals so stay in single file and keep talking to a minimum.’

We walk in silence and suddenly George comes to an abrupt halt. ‘These are fresh buffalo tracks and he could still be around. A lone buffalo is the most dangerous animal to encounter on foot so we need to get away from this thick vegetation,’ warns George.

We stop several times to inspect buffalo dung and lion tracks. George also shows us the roots of the red star apple plant and demonstrates how the locals use it to brush their teeth. ‘It works really well and helps to prevent gum disease. It also saves a lot of money on Colgate,’ he smiles.

My time in the delta passes quickly and I settle into the wilderness schedule of early mornings, inter-camp flights and game drives at sunset. At Chitabe Camp I’m fortunate to witness two lions mating. Another exciting encounter occurs while eating dinner under the stars at Tubu Tree Camp. Two male lions arrive from the darkness and walk past our table, just 40 metres away. It’s too close for a frightened British guest who flees for the safety of the lodge.

But I’ve left the best place until last. Overlooking a lagoon filled with hippos, Kings Pool Camp in the Linyanti Wildlife Reserve is one of Wilderness Safaris premier camps. Accommodation here is luxurious with nine tented suites, each boasting a large bathroom and a lounge area decorated with dark wood furniture and leather chairs. Outside is a private sundeck with plunge pool and a shady sala overlooking the Linyanti River.

The wildlife here is prolific and on my final game drive we encounter several breeding herds of elephants. Then, just after sunset, I have my first leopard sighting. It’s an exciting moment as she walks right past our vehicle, her eyes fixed on a distant impala.

The next day back in Cape Town, culture shock sets in as I readjust to a life of buildings, cars and noise. But it’s heartening to think that the beauty of Botswana is just over two hours away.

Copyright © 2004 Jeremy Jowell. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without the permission of the author is prohibited.